How I Lost My Vegetarian Life

Chorrillana (Chile national dish)

Chorrillana (Chilean dish)

My family likes to tease me that when I was very young, I would order T-bone steaks, clean my plate, then help finish someone else’s ribeye while also enjoying a baked potato topped with a pound of butter.

I didn’t like vegetables then, and when my mother tried to force me to eat broccoli, I threw up on her. She never forced me to eat vegetables after that.

My eating habits didn’t improve much until college, when I spent a semester abroad in England in 1995, and was nervous about the meat. I unwittingly became vegetarian, and enjoyed it.

Of course, other reasons were in play, too. By that time I had become educated about the hideous treatment of chickens, pig cesspools, and drugged up cows.

I’m not against eating meat, but I hate the thought of animals living an inhumane and unnatural life, to speak nothing of the environmental repercussions. Reading Fast Food Nation in 2001 convinced me that I’d be a vegetarian forever. (Here’s an award-winning cartoon called The Meatrix that sums up industrial farming quite compellingly.)

Despite my steak-eating childhood, it wasn’t difficult to bid adieu to meat. Maybe the flavorless mystery meat of college cafeterias made it easy, but whatever the reason, when people asked how I could manage a vegetarian lifestyle, the question seemed silly since there was no sacrifice involved.

Then I started traveling (outside of England)—to the Czech Republic, France, Italy, Spain, Chile. Experiencing the traditions and eccentricities surrounding another culture’s food is one of the best parts of travel.

So how could I go to Chile and not eat chorillana? How could I go to France and not enjoy a little l’assiette de charcuterie with my glass of Burgundy?

As Molly Wizenberg wrote in her essay for Bon Appetit, “Why I’m Not a Vegetarian,” meat makes for a slippery slope.

Back home, soon I was surreptitiously allowing restaurants to garnish my salads with bacon or prosciutto. I’d eat greens ‘n’ beans with cornbread at Cracker Barrel (road trips only, I swear), and especially enjoy the ham pieces nestled in the greens.

For 15 years now, whenever I eat out with my family, they always ask, “Can you eat here?” not realizing how much restaurant menus have changed, even in Indiana. Or how much I have changed too.

When I returned from Ireland and sat down at Johnny Rockets, and ordered a bowl of meat chili, I thought maybe this little cheat wasn’t so bad. It was a treat—you know, lost luggage and all.

But then I thought of the treats I allow at other times, like chicken springrolls at Slatt’s Pub, or bites of The Conductor’s burger at Mayberry, or weekend goetta with sausage gravy at Tucker’s.

It’s time to admit it. I’m not vegetarian any more.

Slatt's Chicken Springrolls

Slatt's Chicken Springrolls (yum!)

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  • http://www.marisabirns.com/ Marisa Birns

    I think the tired “flexitarian” label is what I'm going with. I don't eat as much meat as I once did, though. As a matter of fact, I can go weeks without eating it. But if I attend a dinner where meat is served, I do enjoy it.

    However, one has to be so careful now about the quality of meat being served. So I'm eating less and less of it when I eat at restaurants. Health reasons, animal cruelty reasons…are becoming more important for me as I get older. :)

    My late father was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina and he made the best empanadas. Now, I make them with vegetables and they are just as good without the meat.

    But, when I was in Italy…YUM to pork sausage dinner!

  • http://www.dsch.com/blog1 Michael Wheatley

    Very proud of you for coming clean… or going dirty… Oh, you know what I mean.

    ;)
    ~TC

  • cczivko

    I understand where you're coming from. I was never much of a TV watcher (didn't own one for years in college) and stopped watching TV altogether after 9/11. It has become part of my identity to say “I don't watch TV.” However, when Nurse Jackie (I'm a critical care nurse) and Glee (and lover of theater) came along things changed. I even subscribed to Showtime in order to watch Nurse Jackie (yes, she keeps it real). And my 13 year old daughter and I started a ritual of watching Glee together. Although both shows are in their respective off-seasons and I haven't replaced them with anything else, I have to admit: I watch TV. What can I say? People change.

  • http://www.kmwalsh.com/ Kellie

    Kudos for posting about this, Jane. I went through similar myself. I was a strict vegetarian for more than a decade, dabbled with periods of veganism, and then my strictness slowly loosened. A bite of this here, an okay to that there, a not-asking-what-kind-of-stock-it's-made-of somewhere else. I can't even explain it. The hardest part was recognizing and admitting it. There's a good amount of guilt involved, as well as a weighing of priorities and feelings and even of personal identity. It's not easy. I applaud you for putting your feelings out there.

    I've always thought the “flexitarian” label, as Marisa above mentions, just plain silly (not meant as offense, Marisa), so I just skip it. My vegetarianism only ever came up as a matter of necessity; now, I feel no need or reason to explain what I do or don't eat or by how much. And happily, being a vegetarian for so long expanded my knowledge of tofu, beans, and dishes and preparation methods I might never have learned about otherwise, and because of my age at the time, it formed the backbone of how I learned to cook. I still eat far more veg than meat, but rather than worry about what to call it, I just make my decisions as I go along, and go about my day.

  • jeannevb

    You threw up on your mother too? I only did it when forced to drink milk. But, in all fairness, I threw up on the lunch lady too.

    Yes, Jane, you are officially not a vegetarian. Welcome back. Very fun post : )

  • http://www.janefriedman.com Jane Friedman

    Fortunately, in Cincy, there has been strong support of restaurants using local produce and meats, which usually means organic and humanely raised. Here's to hoping the locavore movement takes stronger hold.

  • http://www.janefriedman.com Jane Friedman

    In response to cczivko & Kellie: Yes! Recognition & admission! So peculiar to me how sometimes we desperately want to change an aspect of our life or identity, yet can also be hard on ourselves when we change unexpectedly. As you say, it can be difficult to let go of the labels we've used to differentiate us.

    I realized I was undergoing a struggle when I suggested to another vegetarian traveling with me that he ought to eat meat too. When we're uncertain or insecure, one of our first instincts is to reach out for some company — to reassure us we're doing the right thing.

    I love the attitude of stop explaining (or worrying)! Most explaining in life is totally unnecessary (as it is in writing).

  • http://www.loudpoet.com Guy LeCharles Gonzalez

    Despite knowing how badly animals are treated, I don't think I could ever be a vegetarian, but I do try to eat a bit smarter nowadays. Especially after my wife read The Omnivore's Dilemma! Ick. Dilemma, indeed.

    I totally agree with you about Cracker Barrel as road trip food. Sometimes we'll take a mini-road trip just to justify eating there!

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